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In forty-eight hours’ time, Salam is meant to inaugurate the new, one-hundred-million-dollar building of the Ashti Foundation, a curious hybrid of art and fashion, with four floors and some 40,000 square feet of pristine exhibition space flanking an enormous new shopping mall.

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Some artists began donating their works when the museum could no longer acquire anything.Every autumn, the art scene in Beirut spins through several weeks of hysterical hyperactivity before sliding into a gloomy winter.This year, however, the start of that season has been especially intense, and the subject of greater international attention than usual.The rabbit hole I’ve tumbled into, however, is entirely different from anything else in the everyday life of Beirut.Huge white buses cram the narrow streets of the surrounding neighborhood.

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